Under the Bent Rim - Gold Leaf Docklands

Peanut and pork steamed dumplings, braised chicken's feet, and wu gok (pork filled fried taro dumplings)

Recently sampled the dim sum at the relatively new Gold Leaf Chinese restaurant in Waterfront City at Harbour Town Docklands. The venue is located within Melbourne's newest complex for factory outlet shopping, so new in fact that many of the frontages remain vacant or were not quite yet at full operation. This gave the precinct a sparse and somewhat desolate atmosphere, which means it fits in perfectly with the rest of Docklands. The restaurant is on a first floor wing, pretty much directly under the shadow of the city's latest and biggest but embarassingly dysfunctional tourist attraction, the Southern Star Observation Wheel. The structure inspired by the London Eye has since been called many other names, The Melbourne Eye(Sore), a white elephant, a laughing stock but I'll be kind and just call it unlucky. After much delays during its initial construction, it had opened for operation for a mere two months before an infamous heatwave from the summer just passed proved too much and cracked some of its spoked girders. It's now back to the drawing board with repairs reported to take up to 12 months, perhaps in time for a reopening next summer? Here's hoping that those responsible have taken into account that the seasons, unlike the wheel, will be coming around full circle and yes, Melbourne summers can get hot!

The Docklands restaurant is the most recent addition to the Gold Leaf group of chinese seafood and yum cha restaurants, which have more branches opening around town than your average bank. If they introduced facilities for paying utility bills and cashing deposits, I'm sure it'll be a greatly appreciated social service to the senior population, especially in addition to offering Sunday brunch. Being new the restaurant is bright, helped by floor-to-ceiling glass frontage, generous lighting and an illuminated panel depicting an oriental river scene along the back wall. Service too was bright despite the frenetic pace usually set at yum cha. I nearly choked on my dumpling when we received an "Enjoy your meal" from the trolley servicer after she deposited our steamer of choice on the table, and damn well did choke when the same happened again later from a different girl. A remarkable deviation from the usual surly though admittedly harrassed staff at yum cha service. Foodwise, I'd expect that the dim sum at any of the Gold Leaf restaurants would be pretty dependable though this outlet offered less than expected variety on a visit. Waiting periods between carts were somewhat inconsistent, though portion sizes were noticeably generous. Traditionalists may grumble that they touch more than the heart (ie. lack finesse). We have previously had yum cha at the Gold Leaf Restaurant Sunshine and been more impressed with the quality (especially their roasted suckling pig), though much less so with the crowds and difficulty in finding a park! However no such issues at Docklands with multi-story parking aplenty.

A wooden vat of dau fu fa, silken soy curds served in gingery syrup

Perhaps there had been little reason to venture into Harbour Town with its star attraction currently out of commission and the fashion outlets still finding their feet, thanks to the same issue. However the presence of Golf Leaf is now one reason to stay on that tram from the CBD for a little further, or otherwise venture in to try a clean new yum cha venue. Do so before the queues get longer, the carpets get faded, the tiles get slippery and the service gets jaded. The crowds are already gathering. We had to wait around 30 minutes with no booking on a Sunday lunchtime, so it'll pay to book prior to a visit or as Edmund Blackadder might say as you wait beside the live seafood tanks, "You'll be spending more time staring at fish staring back at you, than Fishy the Fish Starer cares to spend time staring at fish!"

Food: 14/20 - Run of the mill dim sum.
Service: 14/20 - Not bad for yum cha.
Value: 15/20 - Nothing out of the ordinary.
R-Factor: 14/20 - It's now the yum cha place closest to us.
Spot Score: 14/20 - Offers another mid-range choice for Cantonese cuisine.

Gold Leaf Chinese Restaurant
Level 1, 10-11 Star Circus, Waterfront City, Harbour Town, Docklands VIC.

Birds of the Orient - Hong Kong Food

Stone tablet motif of Shui Hu Ju's menu

The line-up of drafts that call for my attention here reminds me of the somewhat unsettling queue of floating planes I witnessed out my seat window only just recently, each held up in their allocated pocket of airspace as they await their turn to land at one of the busiest of airports. Which is a convenient segue onto my short stay in Hong Kong for work last month, though tight schedules and a lack of local knowledge meant that I barely touched the surface on the broad and exotic culinary opportunities on offer there. Despite this however, I did manage to grab a few interesting meals which on reflection appeared to be dominated by an avian theme. Poultry in its many forms is certainly the most popular meat consumed in the Far East, occasional outbreaks of bird flu notwithstanding.

My first meal of note was a work related function, a full dinner banquet at the Cantonese restaurant of the Royal Park Hotel located deep in the New Territories. An all expenses paid procession of courses so I certainly had no complains! Regrettably each dish was only presented to the table briefly then whisked away to be portioned out for each diner, and I had to be on my best behaviour, so there was little opportunity with the camera. But we had shark fin soup, scallops in XO sauce, salt and pepper fried prawns, whole steamed grouper, beef stir-fried with vegetables, BBQ duck, wok-tossed noodles and something I’d never tried before, claypot braised duck feet and sea-cucumber (beche-de-mer). The sea-cucumber was ho-hum, it was the not unpleasantly gelatinous webbed duck feet that was a new textural experience.
Royal Park Chinese Restaurant, The Royal Park Hotel, 8 Pak Hok Ting Street, Shatin, Hong Kong.

Here’s hoping Donald scrubbed between his toes

Another evening I caught up with some folks for pre-dinner drinks in Central district, Hong Kong’s tourist and business inner-city heart. The maze of upmarket pubs and clubs gave the area away as the premier hangout for the professional expatriate population. Allow me to confirm that any typical ‘Suit’ in a bar there can be just as pretentiously obnoxious as ones you’re likely to brush pelvises against in downtown Little Collins Street, a universal breed to be sure. Dinner post-drinks was at a rather upmarket establishment famous for its specialty Northern Chinese cuisine.

Meaty treasures found in Stewed Beef Rib Wrapped with Lotus Leaf

The restaurant Shui Hu Ju is part of the Aqua Group, a conglomerate of hip restaurants and bars located around the city. SHJ is quite a stylish replica of a traditional Chinese teahouse, discreet entrance marked by period red lanterns and upon entry, dark moody corners with period timber screens and antique furnishings and artefacts to match. We sampled signature dishes such as the Stewed Beef Rib Wrapped with Lotus Leaf, a huge green parcel opened at the table by our waitress to reveal headily spiced meat shredded off the bone to be picked at with our chopsticks at leisure and dipped into a soy vinaigrette with fresh bird’s eye chilli. Then there was a show stopping dish of Deep Fried Chicken with Sichuan Chilli, crispy fried pieces of exotic black skinned Silkie chicken poking through a sea of fiery peppers. Biting through the deliciously light crispy coating on the meat, a faint pleasant tone of Chinese medicinal herbs could be detected. For about 10 seconds...then the chilli kicks in and nostrils flare to the sharp fumes while tastebuds are cauterised by the lethal coating of powdered Szechuan pepper and chilli. The trick here was to attempt to recover quickly from the shock and ignore the burning pain. Then when our tastebuds surrendered to a dull throbbing numbness, the buried rich flavours would start registering in the brain receptors once again. Phew, and what a trip it was. We finished to the last piece in nose sniffing and lip trembling satisfaction.
Shui Hu Ju, 68 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong.

A volcanic plate of Deep Fried Chicken with Sichuan Chilli

On my last evening in Honkers, I gathered with a bunch of like-minded colleagues back at Central for a booking at Yung Kee Restaurant, world renowned for its Cantonese-style roasted goose. How famous? Just google the words “roast goose Hong Kong” and you’ll be led directly to Yung Kee, and the exultations of the multitudes that have made pilgrimage there and been touched by ‘the goose’. Our waitress knowingly confirmed that we’ll want to book a whole goose for our meal even before we were properly seated to be handed menus, such was the confidence that the signature dish was what all customers come to the restaurant for…as highlighted by this excerpt from travel writer and expatriated New York native, Daisann McLane in her Hong Kong Blog “Learning Cantonese”.

“...I remember that bird flu period. It was a sad time in Hong Kong. You’d enter Yung Kee, and before the grey-haired bespectacled waiter even handed you a menu, he’d be apologizing: "Sorry, no goose today". And then he would nod, understandingly, so that his customer would not feel any embarrassment or qualms about walking out of the restaurant on the spot. Such honor and candor is rare among restauranteurs.”

Yung Kee's roasted goose, has been listed as one of the 'must-try-before-you-die' food experiences

Anyway the roasted goose at Yung Kee was an impressive bird indeed, succulent and meaty with sweet crispy skin to savour with each mouthful. Compared to the more familiar roast duck, the goose was sweeter, less gamey and much richer. It’s definitely a meal to be shared, as its richness could easily become too much of a good thing. We also sampled Yung Kee’s equally famous preserved century duck eggs that were served as a sulphurously pungent amuse bouche eaten with loads of pickled ginger, followed by Chinese five-spice roasted pigeon, prawns with XO sauce, and several other Cantonese dishes. But the waitress was right, we were there mainly for the goose and did not leave disappointed.
Yung Kee Restaurant, 32-40 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong.

Succulent and meaty roasted pigeons - solution for tackling the 'rats of the skies' problem?

Non-Fish Lovers Beware, Gratuitous Head Shot! - Brisbane Food

Currently back at my childhood haunts and family hometown of the Gold Coast and Brisbane for the week. The Gold Coast is ever busier but essentially remains the same familiar concentration of vulgar urbanity. And as far as I can tell, the place is still largely a cultural and gastronomic desert. Brisbane I concede, is continuing to gain maturity. More surprising however, is that the source for this post comes from deep within that speedily malignant spread of urban development between the coast and the capital city. Our clan had gathered to celebrate the 96-th birthday of the family's most senior patriarch, descending on a relatively nondescript but hilariously named suburban Chinese (& Malaysian) restaurant close-by to the home of some family members.


Those in the know had organised a full 8-course banquet but out of the procession of dishes some of which were more successful than others, one stood out above. There's a bountiful of fresh fish that can be bought at the various markets and fishmongers back in Melbourne but for sheer variety, the addition of tropical varieties found in the states further north can't be beat. And there's no finer or more delicious example of tropical piscine flesh than a whole perfectly steamed, ruby-coloured Queensland Coral Trout; served simply with the fish's own steaming liquor sauced lightly with soy, generous slivers of spring onion and coriander sprigs, a little dash of sesame oil, plus a final slippery drizzle of hot plain oil that was used to lightly crisp garnishings of ginger and garlic to infuse the aromatics. Who will be able to get enough of the tender pearlescent white flesh spooned over with some of that sauce onto plain steamed rice? And finally, whose manners would be the first to give out and dive for those heavenly pockets of flesh cradled in both cheeks of the head! Salute!

Ya Hoo Seafood Restaurant
Shop 10-11, 22 Loganlea Road, Waterford, QLD
(Spot Score: 14/20; Fish Score: 19/20)